Stair Banister Renovation Using Existing Newel Post and Handrail

Stair Banister Remodel Tutorial

To keep the cost down, I decided to use MDF material instead of real wood.  Since I wanted the new posts white, I knew the MDF would be the cheapest and easiest option to paint.

CUT LIST:

I cut out the following for each of the newel posts:

• (x2) of 3/4″ MDF) 4″ x 18″
• (x2) of 3/4″ MDF) 5.5″ x 18″
• (x2) of 1/4″ MDF) 4″ x 32″
• (x2) of 1/4″ MDF) 3.5″ x 32″
• (x2) of 1/4″ MDF) 3.5″ x 4″
• (x2) of 1/4″ MDF) 4″ x 4″

Molding used:

• Panel SD186 HEM 1/2 x 1 -1/16
• Cove WM100 HEM 11/16 x 11/16

Total cost, $158 (when originally done; 2014)

Here is the breakdown:

$60 – For all MDF pieces, AND moldings for BOTH newel posts
$14 – 2 outdoor fence post caps
$64 – 16 square Home Depot Spindles
$20 – General Finishes Java Gel Stain

Step 1 – Square the Banister

Start by placing the 1/8″ thick 32″ long pieces around the base of the newel post.  Prior to clamping, add Liquid Nails to the edges and added supports on the inside with wood scraps and paint sticks.  Then nail them to the post from the outside (definitely nail through the supports you put in there for extra stability)

Step 3 – Bulk up the Base

Now it is time to build up the base of your squared newel post.  Do this by adding the 3/4″ thick 18″ long MDF around the very bottom, and follow the same steps of wood glue, clamps, and nails.

Step 4 – Build Cap For Top of Post.

To cover the “ball” on the end of the post, put together a smaller box of the 1/8″ thick mdf.  Use wood glue, clamps, and small 3/4″ finish brad nails to hold the box together until the glue is dry.

Step 5 – Attach Cap To Box

Once your box is dry, use an outdoor fence post cap from Home Depot and liquid nail it to the top of your box.

Step 6 – Glue and Nail in Place

Before using your nail gun or hammer and nails to attach it to the existing “ball”, put some liquid nails inside.  Make sure to nail gun the top of the cap onto the “ball”, as well as the sides of the box into the rest of the post.

Step 7 – Add Moldings to Cover Transitions

Now that your newel post is square, you need to add molding to close the gaps and beautify it.  (I found that I didn’t need to nail these pieces on.  I simply cut them to fit, liquid nailed them in place, and used some painter’s tape to hold them in place until the glue was dry.)

Put the same two moldings where the 3/4″ MDF box ends, as well as where the 1/8″ MDF box ends.

You can use your choice of molding; however, I used cove and panel molding.  Here is the specific info for both of those:

• Panel SD186 HEM 1/2 x 1 -1/16
• Cove WM100 HEM 11/16 x 11/16

Step 8 – Add Moldings at Each Transition

Add a small molding like the one below at the base of your top box.  (I found the one I used in Home Depot’s Molding aisle in the little bin sections with other small molding that comes about 3 feet long.) 

Here is a closer look at the molding in place at the base of the top box.

Step 9 – Begin Removing the Balusters (Spindles)

After finishing the new newel posts, move on to replacing the spindles.

You could use any style of balusters you like. I chose an affordable square block style, to match my banister shape but there are many styles from iron balusters (shown in image below) to more ornately carved options available online if you like that look.

Use a jig saw or reciprocating saw to cut the spindles in half and remove.

Step 10 – Replace the Top Portion of Baluster into Handrail

Next, cut the top of the spindle off  (where there is no varnish, making it flush with the rail when inserted) with a miter saw and use liquid nails to glue it back up inside the top rail.  (I did this to have some solid wood for my screw to go into when I put the new spindle in.)

When I removed the old spindle, I unscrewed it off this screw which ended up being helpful in re-screwing my new spindle back on to.

Step 11 – Cut Balusters to Finished Length Needed

Cut your new spindles to the desired length needed allowing them to fit snug between the top and bottom rails.

Step 12 – Drill Hole in Center Bottom of Baluster

Next, find the center on one end and drill a hole into it so that it can be screwed into the screw pictured above.

(yes, I do know that I didn’t quite hit my center below 🙂)

Step 13 – Add a Pocket Hole to Top of Baluster

Lastly, use a Kreg Jig to make a pocket hole on the opposite end of where you drilled the other hole:

Step 14 – Glue and Screw Balusters in Place

I added Liquid Nails to both ends and screwed the spindle on to the bottom screw.  Once in place, put a 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screw in the top attaching it to the top railing.

Be sure to check for level on each spindle before securing the top screw in it’s final position.

Being sure to do good sanding so that all seams will be hidden nicely. This prep matters for the final look so much .

Step 16 – Paint

Paint the newel post, bottom rails, and spindles first. (I used the same white paint I had on hand that matched the moldings in my house.)

Step 18: Enjoy Your New Banister

Before:

After:

Here are a couple more shots at different angles

Total cost for this awesome DIY, $158.

Here is the breakdown:

$60 – For all MDF pieces, AND moldings for BOTH newel posts
$14 – 2 outdoor fence post caps
$64 – 16 square Home Depot Spindles
$20 – General Finishes Java Gel Stain

After completing the shorter section of railing on our main floor, I decided to tackle our upstairs staircase railing.  I followed the same steps and can’t think of anything I would do different to make it simpler. I just love the modern stair railing look up here. It refreshes the whole space and the look of your stairs without having to change the actual stairs themselves.